1971 Plymouth Barracuda Sedan Yellow base

Vehicle Description

This 1971 Plymouth Barracuda is an original. The owner has had it for 4 years. The vehicle runs great and is mainly used for weekend drives.

Vehicle Details

Stop…do not click ‘Buy it Now.’ I will cancel any ‘Buy it Now’ and relist until we have spoken directly. The sale of this car must happen after we speak and come to an understanding about payment transfer.

Not interested in trades. I am not seeking opinions about the asking price. If you see my other cars in the background, they are not for sale.

The price I have listed is non negotiable. If it’s too high, you’re welcome to hold tight for another decade or two until the perfect deal falls in your lap. Which of course won’t happen because there are a million guys wanting this car. There aren’t many of these desirable cars left so this is an opportunity, not a bargain. Think of it as supply and demand. These cars have gone up in value consistently for forty years. While I’d like the extra room, I’m okay with keeping it in the shop for another five years and then someone will pay even more down the road. None of us are getting younger so get over the price and start living your dream now. And after you’ve had your fun, you’re certain to turn it for a profit yourself.

Don’t be the guy who says, ‘I passed on the car because it seemed a little too high at the time but looking back, I should have bought it.’ That’s the most repeated regret in this hobby.

Up for sale is my 1971 Plymouth Barracuda hardtop in original, unmolested, survivor condition. For those who may not know, the performance ‘Cuda came with fender gills but the base cars like this one did not. I say this because I get guys arguing about whether it’s a real 71.

This was a California car brought to Tennessee twenty years ago and kept garaged so the condition is far better than most of the unrestored E body cars left out there. This car came from the factory in the popular Curious Yellow color, upgraded cloth insert seats and air conditioning.

This is a 318 automatic car with the console floor shifter. Original engine and transmission. All body numbers intact and match the vin and door decal.

Engine runs great. Will break the tires loose and transmission shifts nice. Car doesn’t overheat and I’ve taken it out on long drives many times.

Fender tag has never been removed.

Doors close smoothly. Windows go up and down smoothly.

The exterior is mostly untouched. It had some rust bubbles on the lower driver quarter so I cut it out and welded in a small patch panel. The trunk drop off on the inside had one small spot of rust so it too got a small patch. The area behind the driver door had similar rust bubbles and received the same treatment. It looks different only because I didn’t finish it like the other and cover it with epoxy sealer.

I’ve had this car on a lift and been over every square inch in the four years I’ve owned it. The only rust left to deal with is the trunk floor (side extension drop offs are good) and the roof skin which had bubbling. I haven’t lifted the vinyl top or removed the original headliner to look from the inside but I’ll assume it needs a new roof skin at worst. These two jobs are fairly simple and fast for a competent shop. I’ve done this stuff before and it’s really not hard.

The other areas like the floors, rails, cowl, etc aren’t just good, they are excellent and I’m happy to put it on the rack when you come to inspect it.

If there are any concerns about the metal work done, I’m happy to show you two other cars I’m currently working on with major metal work and we can go over it all in person. You will not find an unrestored e body with less rust and that alone will save you tens of thousands in repairs during the restoration.

I repainted the tail panel to the black organisol texture to mimic the Cuda look. The holes from the original Barracuda emblem were welded up.

I added the performance hood, again to mimic the Cuda look.

When I picked it up four years ago, it ran and drove excellent. I noticed a bearing noise in the rear axle so I pulled them and installed new bearings and seals.

I put new rubber bushings in the rear spring shackles.

It needed a lower ball joint so I rebuilt the entire front end and used rubber bushings. I swapped the 318 torsion bars for the big block bars and added a factory front sway bar. The lower control arms were stiffened with reinforcement plates.

New 14” tires. New shocks all around.

The car drives like new and handles quite well.

Brakes were all gone through. They are manual but car stops good.

The interior is very nice. Original headliner and carpet are fairly nice. The seats look as though someone put new covers on them but I can’t be certain. They are the correct vinyl with cloth inserts that the fender tag calls for. Center console is not busted up.

I pulled the entire dash assembly and put in a new dash pad. The AC vents and ducts are in great shape. Wiring harness is excellent.

I added rallye gauges along with the correct light bar.

I also rebuilt the AC heater box while it was out and put in a new evaporator coil. Everything works and all that’s needed for the AC is the under hood components.

Lights, turn signals and gauges all work great.

The grill is completely unbroken which is unusual. Car came with the rarely seen front bumper guards.

This car would be a fantastic candidate for a high end restomod build or a hemi clone. If you’re into survivors, this is as good as you find in an old muscle car.

Mike 805-404-4226

I have 60 plus photos but please don’t ask me to send unless you’re serious. Can’t stand window shoppers and tire kickers.

Cars like this with more rust generally sell in the mid thirties. This car is priced higher because of the lack of rust and the ability to enjoy it immediately if you like the ratty, survivor look.