1967 Ford F-100 on Detroit Steel Wheels

Vehicle Description

:I bought this truck at the end of 2017 and restored it myself over the course of about 13 months in my garage. So, when I say "new" below it means the work was done in about 2018 with less than 5,000 miles put on it since then. Everything that needed to be fixed was fixed but I kept original where I could. Details are below but the headline is, everything works. So, for example, all new drum brakes at all four corners but upgraded to a power boost. All new suspension bushings. Kept the original paint. Manual shift column was rebuilt (they are impossible to find). Engine was cleaned up and resealed with stainless fasteners but original internals, just upgraded to HEI and a Weber 38/38 carb setup. New kingpins up front with a dream beam drop. New Eaton leaf springs in the back. Dutchman alloy axles with a new third member for the Ford 9" rear - 31 spline, 1350 yoke, 3:50 ratio and Detroit Tru-Trac (yes, I have a rear axle that will handle 650hp in a 240 CID truck). This truck does not have air conditioning.You want to cruise on Saturday, do it. Want to show it, do it (all the awards it's already won in local shows will come with it). Want to tear it apart and throw in a big block and six speed - do it, you won't be fighting a bunch of filth and rusty tin to do the job. Want to add aftermarket AC and make it a daily - have at it.You get the truck, the original parts I took off (like the original carb, oil bath air cleaner, etc.), a few new parts I've never installed, the awards it's won, the Marti report, the receipts and the build book (I had a book made of all the repair and build photos). You get the shop manuals - yes, I have them. Lock, stock and barrel.Please read and understand before you bid: this truck is nearly 70 years old. You're buying it as is, where is. There's no warranty of any kind, express or implied.If you want something perfect you don't ever have to touch and starts in .5 seconds when you just look at the key, keep looking because 70-year-old trucks with manual chokes and a carburetor won't make you happy, unless you are prepared to spend six figures. She may run for you without a hiccup for 40 years or she may explode in a fiery ball of death ten seconds after parking in your driveway. (The gas tank is behind the seat so it can kill you efficiently.) I've owned it for 7+ years and have turned every nut and bolt. If you want a cool, classic truck, you could do a lot worse for a lot more money. I did the best I could with it but I'm not a pro at anything, just a guy turning wrenches in his garage. I have no complaints, just out of time and out of space.I'm happy to work with your shipper so they can pick up but you are responsible to arrange pick up or shipping using the carrier of your choice. I'm not driving halfway across the country to meet you in a dark field next to the old, abandoned farm house or dealing with your cousin's brother's uncle's sister. When it leaves my driveway, it belongs to you. Sorry to sound like a jerk, but it's important to be clear up front.Base Specifications:

1967 Ford F100
2WD
240 CID 6-CYL
Engine Code No. Cyl. CID Horsepower Comp. Ratio Carb
A 6 240 150 9.2:1 1-bbl
Assembly Plant: Kansas Cit, MO
April 1967
Wheelbase 131 (long wheelbase)
Color Code B (Frost Turquoise (Lt. Aqua) Spec. No. M30J-1734-A)
Body code B81 (Custom Cab bench seat - Medium blue petticrush vinyl and medium blue leeds pattern woven plastic) (Conventional Cab)
Transmission Code C (3-speed Ford Light Duty)
Transmission Tag RAN G1
K036401
Ford 3.03 3-speed (HFF model)
Rear Axle Code 09
3.70 (3.3M) Ford (WDM-K -U)
GVWR 5000
Certified Net HP 129 at 4000 RPM
DSO 532638 (Kansas City district special order #2638)

Body Work:

New Radiator Core Support
New Inner Fenders/fender aprons
New battery tray
Front turn lenses
Rear turn lenses
New windshield
New windshield and rear glass rubber
Fuel filler neck rubber replaced
New body mounts
New cab mounts
New door weather stripping
New door springs
New hood hinges and springs
New body hardware (all nuts/bolts replaced with correct hardware from AMK Products Master Body Kit)
New tailgate handle
Bed liner
Underbody rust removal and undercoated with 3M undercoating
New floor pans welded in (NOT lap welded or slapped over old tin, sealed with rust bullet and undercoating)
Cab support replacements welded in
Spot repair of rust bubbles with spot paint correction (NOT to perfection)
Original paint (except in rust repair spots), cut and buffed - this would be considered a "patina" paint job but it's the original paint with authentic wear

Interior Work:

OEM style replacement steering wheel and horn ring
Manual shift 3-on-the-tree column rebuilt
New window felts
New door rubber/weatherstripping
New dash pad
Pinstriping
Custom bench seat and matching headliner marine grade vinyl upholstery, with matching arm rests and visors
Hook and loop carpet replacement and matching foot mats
Dennis Carpenter firewall cover
New 3-pedal box with ball bearing bushings and clutch spring
Heater box and fan rebuilt
New dash bezel
Voltmeter conversion in place of old ammeter
New gauge voltage regulator
New gas gauge sending unit
All gauges work
Emergency brake works
Brake warning light works
Glove box replaced (factory glove boxes were cardboard - really)
Rusty ash tray replaced
All internal switches replaced (ignition, headlights, fan control)
ADDED: manual switch for electric fuel pump, failsafe switch to turn on electric fans if coolant temp sensor fails (these switches are not visible in the dash)

Suspension Work:

DJM Suspension 3" drop Cream Beams up front (I have the original I-beams to send with the truck, you can make decent money on them if you want to sell)
AddCo Performance front anti-sway bar
Eaton Detroit front coil springs and rear leaf springs (lowered 3" front, 5" rear)
Energy Suspension radius arm bushings
Energy Suspension tie rod and center link
Moog King Pins, custom reamed as required with new king pin bushings in the knuckles
DJM Suspension shocks x4
Crown Suspension C-Notch Kit
New axle bumpers

Mechanical, Under Hood and Driveline Work:

Mobsteel Steelie from Detroit Steel Wheel Co., 20x9", 5x5/5.5 lug pattern, (6" backspacing rear, 3.5" backspacing front) powder coated fire engine red by Houston Powder Coating with 20" trim rings and Shannon Cone center caps
Sumitomo Max whitewall Diamond Back tires - 245/40/20
Eaton Tru-Trac and Dutchman alloy axle shafts (3.50, 31-spline, 1350 yoke)
New rear axle seals and custom drain and fill ports in housing
New one-piece drive shaft, carrier bearing and u-joints
All new drum brake hardware, shoes, drums and seals at all four corners
New parking brake cables
New brake lines (hard brake lines and stainless steel braided soft lines)
Converted from manual to power brake master cylinder (brakes work good!)
New Timken bearings up front
Davis Unified Ignition distributor with Live Wires spark plug wires
Powermaster 150A Chevrolet-style 1-wire alternator (external regulator eliminated and wiring harness cleaned up with circuits all labeled individually)
New radiator support mounts
Champion aluminum radiator
Dual fan electric fan setup, with relays, triggered by temp sensor
Replaced cracked timing cover
New belts, new hoses
New gaskets - oil pan, valve cover, side cover
Convert to electric fuel pump
Weber 38/38 carb
New steering rag joint
New water pump
New washer fluid pump and bag-style reservoir
New Thompson pencil-neck style power steering pump
Power steering box rebuilt by Bluetop
New relay-style headlight harness with Auxbeam headlights
Redtop battery; GP Audio terminals (for individual circuit connections)
All fluids, plugs, etc. current - she's ready to drive.

Any known issues?

It drives fine and tracks straight, no problem rolling down the highway or driving around town but this is not a modern vehicle: you won't have lots of fun shifting in heavy stop and go traffic. You won't have lots of fun bombing over potholes in a lowered truck. Top practical speed on highway is probably about 60-65MPH due to gearing and RPM range of the straight six - so Cannonballing at 80mph is probably not a likely use case for this truck.
Small oil leak, possibly rear main seal (about one-half the size of a dollar bill over the course of six months in the garage, "damp spot" rather than a puddle but it is there)
Oozing, not enough to drip, from the manual transmission shift shaft seals (I have the seals but juice not worth the squeeze to me to fix)
Not urgent, but if you want to keep the three-speed and drive it regularly, I'd have the transmission rebuilt - 1st gear is a little grumpy, likes to pop out of gear occasionally when you first put it into first gear; it's annoying to have to go back to neutral and shift back into first to make it happy. Remember, this is a manual "three-on-the tree" with mechanical shift linkages - it is NOT an automatic.

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